Eat, Drink, Shop in Banja uka

The Shopping

Groceries

Generally, grocery shopping in Banja Luka is a positive experience. The larger stores offer a wide variety of cheeses, meats, poultry, and fish. There are independent butchers in most neighbourhoods, and we found them to be exceptional. We both enjoy cooking at home and have not had any issues finding most ingredients. However, we have scoured the shops for Gochujang paste (Korean) and Thai green or red curry (although you can find the milder yellow curry). Obviously, what we like may not be what you like, so this is just a very general overview of my experiences grocery shopping.

Stores

Because we slow travel and spend three months in each city, we like to spend the first couple of days looking around the stores, noting where we can find the best foodstuffs at the best prices. The most prominent stores are Market AS and the larger MojMarket, where we can find most things we need. The flagship Moymarket store is in the Delta Planet Mall. Another smaller grocery store we like is Super Kort, they have nice fruit and vegetable displays.

Local Shops

Butchers, fishmongers, and greengrocers can be found in all neighbourhoods, and they are of an excellent standard. Do not be shy, the staff are always nice and happy to help. I go armed with a Google translator app and get by. You will also find many kiosks dotted around the city for soft drink and snack, newspapers and cigarettes.

Markets

The most famous market is Gradska Tržnica, which is split in half, with clothing and household items on one side and vegetables, fruit, and an indoor meat market on the other side. You will come across smaller markets throughout Banja Luka on different days.

It is better to go early, as many stalls pack up early afternoon. Obviously, many stallholders are growers, and prices can be cheaper there than in the stores.

Prices

Many people have asked about food and grocery prices in Banja Luka. In my experience, a grocery shop will be cheaper here than in the UK. However, some items will be more expensive. In all Balkan countries, we have found that some tinned goods and Western European branded goods can be expensive. For example, tinned tomatoes cost 2.25KM / £1. Nescafé is around the same price as in the UK. You can find cheddar cheese, although it is more expensive, and we have not enjoyed it as much as local cheeses such as Trappist; we pay around 14Km / £6,20 per kilo. The cheeses and meats at the counter are in blocks and sliced on the machine; the staff usually asks if you want sliced if you are not a local.

To compare prices here in Banja Luka with the UK, I have made a weekly shop and then checked the prices at UK stores such as Tesco and Morrisons. I have found that a grocery shop here in Banja Luka (for our needs) is around 40% cheaper than in the UK.

The Eating and Drinking

Eat Local

Meat features heavily in local dishes. However, vegetarians can find good dishes, and there is always a good choice of salads. Sometimes the size reminds me of a flower table feature, very nice too.

The main meal is called ‘ručak’ and Serbs generally eat in the late afternoon, often as a family. You will soon get used to it. I have met some tourists who say that it is hard to find a good lunch, as some restaurants do not open until later in the day. Below we give recommendations for meals in the city. I have also provided a list of local foods. If you grocery shop here, it is a good idea to write some of them down.

Ćevapi !!

Ćevapi! is huge in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Every city claims they have the best Cevapi. However, Banja Luka is renowned for the way this national dish is offered: a square of minced meat, shaped like four connected sausages. The Cevapi is cooked on coals and has a wonderful Umami taste. Once cooked, the Cevapi is served in Lepinja (or Somun), a unique type of soft, round flatbread, with raw onions. On the side is Kaymak, a local cheese. Another regular condiment is Ajvar: A roasted red pepper sauce that can be used as a spread or a dip. This is a meat-eater’s dream! You must try it.

Cafes

A Guardian columnist once wrote this headline “Banja Luka – Where Life is Lived in Cafes” and she was right, they are everywhere.

Cafe Prices

coming soon

Bars

coming soon

Drinks Prices

coming soon

Fast Food

McDonalds does not exist in Bosnia and Herzegovina, a mixture of scandal and the competition of Ćevap and kebab houses made it uneconomical for them. There is a Burger King on the main street Gospodska with the usual fare. But there are so many options for takeaway or fast food diners in the city; amazing kebabs, pizza, bakeries and of course lots of Ćivapi. Download the Glovo app to see many options, and for deliveries, which are excellent. Google maps is pretty good for finding places to eat but sometimes outdated, You cannot beat getting out and discovering places. However, we do give a few of our favourite places to eat below.

Restaurants

coming soon